Playing the long game
The perimenopause hair-restoring plan you've been asking for. Here’s how I got my shine back
If you think about it we’ve been told since the dawn of advertising, that thick, voluminous hair equals beauty, equals youth, equals health. So when it thins (apparently for one in four of us women) - even in a gradual way like mine, it feels like a loss of something foundational to how we see ourselves. Particularly hard for me, I suspect, having lost my hair once already - so it definitely affects how I view myself now that my ageing is quite confronting! I was shocked with my diagnosis - I put being able to see my scalp down to harsh bathroom lighting. It’s not just about the physical shift, it’s about what that transition says on a deeper, more personal level. Right now, I’m in the middle of navigating how I approach beauty as I’m getting older, and right now I’m dealing with - *whispers* Female Pattern Hair Loss.
Out the other side of my chemo baldness I learned to appreciate my hair in a different way, and we have been on great terms ever since. Until relatively recently when, suddenly, unexpectedly I just could not control it. Any shine had gone, my usual repertoire of products could not get it back. The texture COMPLETELY changed, it’s kind of coarse even after styling, and then the style just drops out. As a ‘beauty expert’ it’s been driving me crazy. There are so many variables, products, causes, hormones and conflicting advice floating around but underlying all of it is a ringing in my ears of ….’PERIMENOPAUSE-pause-ause-ause-ause.’
So is that it? Am I done with having nice hair? Or can I do some restorative anti-ageing and regain some trust? (YES. the answer is yes).
The Hormones
First stop is to test my hypothesis with my beloved Larry King. I am lucky enough to have been his client since we met through work ten years ago, and now we work together so I get the hotline. “Larry, I think my hair is perimenopausal”. He tells me he is getting a lot more clients coming in with the same concerns recently - it seems the knowledge-blasting about the Perimenopause is heightening our awareness of the impact it can have on our physiology - hair health included. And I know that these changes are down to the gradual decline in oestrogen and progesterone production that happens when our ovaries start to, well, stop, because I have asked some close contacts. According to my favourite aesthetician doctor Dr. David Jack (he’s my master of botox FYI). “The scalp and hair follicles are particularly sensitive to hormonal change, since oestrogen has an important role in promoting hair density and strength. As its levels drop in the lead up to the menopause, hair growth can slow, the individual strands may become finer, and the scalp can feel drier due to reducing sebum levels. The gradual reduction of keratin, the protein that gives hair its structure, also results in a rougher texture. Greying is largely due to oxidative stress on the scalp, which accelerates as oestrogen wanes.”
I am experiencing all of these things, so Larry and I tackle the symptoms. First the dryness, He tells me it’s not as bad as I think, but I’ve been handling it all wrong.
I had been using keratin masks that claim to rebuild or strengthen my hair, but it’s not actually damaged or chemically processed, it’s just really thirsty, and it’s that product protein overload that makes it more dry and brittle, cos it forms a barrier to stop moisture getting into the hair shaft. And just like my skin ageing calls for a different, more extensive repertoire of products (usually richer ones) my hair needs the same. I’d never thought I could be a hair oil devotee - it feels counter intuitive - but seeing and feeling the marked difference in using Larry’s Spoilt For Choice Oil before letting my hair air dry and I’m a total evangelical convert. I also decided to go shorter because literally lighter hair will stop it dragging the roots down - an optical illusion to counteract the loss of volume. I did it. I love it.
The Diagnosis
For the purposes of research and a fully qualified diagnosis I book in to see renowned trichologist Hannah Gaboardi at her Nobu residency. I downplay my concerns while she scans my scalp and quickly tells me what the real issue is. “Androgenic Alopecia.” Otherwise known as Female Pattern Hair Loss. Um, what?? “Yours is genetic, is there any history of hair loss in your family?” My dad lost all his hair in his early twenties, and Hannah tells me (argh!) that you can inherit these genes from either parent. However, it’s not quite as terrifying as it sounds. “It’s a common form of hairloss in women, and being aware of FPHL at an early stage, going on the correct plan in terms of medication and treatment, you can restore hair growth by 60%.” She puts me onto a prescription topical medication, Minoxidil which widens blood vessels to stimulate and prolong the hair growth stage, and I should start to see results in 3-4 months. If you can’t get in with someone like Hannah, or you need the convenience of at-home, there is a brilliant brand called Hair + Me that kind of feels to me like a trichologist in your pocket. It’s a offers an online in-depth consultation including your medical history, lifestyle and hair goals, then delivers a personalised treatment plan and bespoke formulas as a monthly subscription. (For which I also have a serious discount below btw). Aside from the unexpected hair loss, Hannah concurs with my perimenopausal symptoms. “As we age, hair tends to become drier, finer, and more prone to breakage, so it often requires extra hydration, strengthening, and gentle handling. Red light laser therapy also helps stimulate hair growth and scalp health”
The Texture Solution
Whilst it’s not possible to reverse the hair ageing process, there are some incredibly positive changes that can be made to improve the visible effects of it, particularly when it comes to texture and strength..
I have been using, and to be honest totally turned my hair around, with a full health + density boosting plan that I’ve shared below as a handy downloadable checklist. Now I know I have a little control back it feels properly wonderful (figuratively and literally).
And the minoxidil? I went back for a 3 month check up with Hannah. As with all positive changes - when it’s gradual you barely notice, until you’re confronted with the before and afters. I was convinced it wasn’t working for me (it works for something like 90% of people, but I’m a pessimist, so…). I’m sharing these here and only here - because I love you for subscribing - but pls excuse the extreme close ups!
Perimenopausal Hair Swaps
DON’T: Keratin blowdries are tempting for smoothness, but the chemical processing and extreme heat can further weaken fragile hair.
SWAP FOR: In-salon glossing and deep conditioning treatments. Plus my plan below - the frizz antidote capabilities is actually amazing.
DON’T: Do too much heat styling, it causes trauma and damage to the hair and negatively affects texture over time
SWAP FOR: Air dry tech (like Dyson Airstraight, or Airwrap or alternatives). They do wet to dry straightening using air - without hot plates - so no direct heat damage and a great smooth result.
DON’T: Do over Processing/Colour treatments too often if you can help it as they contain harsh chemicals which can damage the hair shaft.
SWAP FOR: Home glossing products - I love Glaze Super Gloss, it is a home conditioning colour booster that adds serious gloss and softness.
The Antidote
Clearly this hair journey is going to be a marathon rather than a sprint, but I do think, for now at least, that I’ve seen, tried, tested and harnessed the light. I’m sure my hormones will go haywire in some other contrary way at some point, but for now, I seriously feel SO much happier in my hair, and as shallow as it might sound, in myself because of it. I like to win! And everytime a friend tells me ‘your hair looks so good, have you had it done?’ (which is more and more often these days) I almost combust.
So. Here, I have a small section of the products that have really properly worked for me here. And for my amazing paid subs, I’ve put together a comprehensive plan complete with all the Better Hair Habits, Better Hair Texture and Density Products, and lastly Hair Growth Products.
Also, some serious discounts…
I appreciate that this is the long game, as it were, and it is an investment, and I want to help you too. So, I’ve been working to get some incredible discounts on all these, and more, to help support your own hair texture/damage/thinning/age-reversal mission. (including an LED brand that is site wide, so if you’ve been wondering if you should get a mask {you should} now is a good time). Please check out below. Just click on the ticket to take you to the right place. And keep me posted!